Recognized in the wine world for his innate meticulousness and scrupulousness that reflect in the wines produced by his namesake domaine, vignaiolo and winemaker Robert Voerzio sets himself apart in important ways. For those following the legendary fracture between the traditionalist and modernist schools of Barolo winemaking, one need not break a sweat putting a finger on which faction Voerzio identifies with. Being master of his craft has called for combining both approaches, as evidenced by his avant-gardist practices in the vineyard and in his preferred fusionist methods applied in the winery.
Voerzio’s wines are some of the rarest. Aside from coming from the most prized and pedigreed vineyards in the revered Langhe region, some dating back to the 1350s, the grape yields are incredibly small, considered the lowest in the appellation. This is done on purpose to ensure quality and optimal maturation of the fruit. High-density planting to encourage competition among vines for nourishment and nutrients, followed by intense grape bunch-thinning carried out multiple times a year to facilitate a survival-of-the-fittest cultivation strategy of the fruit, make for a radical combination that produces the healthiest, most concentrated, quality grapes bursting with character shaped by the dictates of the year’s climate and environmental variations. The sacrifice? An astounding 80% of the crop is eliminated for Barolo, and up to 50% for Dolcetto, Barbera and Nebbiolo, in order to meet Voerzio’s rigorous standards. And one can only imagine the care and attention paid to each individual vine; Voerzio doesn’t use any chemical pesticides or fertilizers and the fruit is picked and sorted manually.
Voerzio does the utmost to preserve the fundamental characteristics and thus realize the purest expression of Nebbiolo, being traditional with the use of wild yeasts for natural fermentation, a departure from the use of non-native fermentation inducers, and opting for gentle pump-overs instead of brutal, high extraction processes. Elevage involves the use of both smaller French barriques and the age-old, large, Slovenian oak botti grandi of yore, thus the wines can hold up to long-aging. The time the wine is left to loll in either type of vessel alternates throughout the maturation years and in varying volumes. The entire production requires delicate judgement and timing, including the extent to which new barriques should be used, to avoid overwhelming the natural aromas and flavors of the wine. Neither does the wine undergo filtration.
Roberto Voerzio is a living Piedmont legend whose Barolos have a world-wide following. His standing and warm reception by critics, along with limited production, make his Barolos some of the dearest and most collectable wines, fetching high prices at auction. Voerzio is a must-have for any serious fine wine collector. The wines are praised for being rich, ripe with balanced fruit, being less tannic and oaky than many of its peers in the appellation, and with a distinctively long finish. They are a sublime blend of intensity and lightness, and are absolutely bright, juicy, and nectarean on the palate.
Voerzio’s wine bottles carry distinctive labels which are in direct contrast to the conventional sombre wine label. With illustrations created by artist Riccardo Assom, they feature bright and playful caricatures of people in winemaking scenes, telling of the verve, cheeky humor and individuality that sets Roberto Voerzio prominently apart. -PWX
“Roberto Voerzio is one of the most fanatical producers I have ever met. He is completely obsessed with quality.”
– Robert Parker
“Voerzio’s passion, his ability to make fabulous, age-worthy wines even in the smallest of vintages, and his total commitment to quality … place him at the pinnacle of achievement among the world’s most gifted winemakers.”
– Antonio Galloni
“Roberto Voerzio is one of the most fanatical producers I have ever met. He is completely obsessed with quality.”
– Robert Parker
“Voerzio’s passion, his ability to make fabulous, age-worthy wines even in the smallest of vintages, and his total commitment to quality … place him at the pinnacle of achievement among the world’s most gifted winemakers.”
– Antonio Galloni
Photo credits:
Maika Masuko
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