HENRI MAGNIEN: The Domaine Behind Pinot Magnien
Charles Magnien is only in his second decade running Henri Magnien, and he’s already talked about as one of Gevrey-Chambertin’s most exciting winemakers. Twelve generations of his family have worked these vines since 1656, but it’s what Charles has done since taking over, from replanting a Pinot Noir variant unique to the family: Pinot Magnien, to mapping every corner of Cazetiers, that has people paying attention now.
The Magnien family has farmed vines in Gevrey-Chambertin since 1656, and Charles now carries the estate into its 12th generation. He started working alongside his father in 2009, gained more freedom over decisions by 2015, and took full charge of the domaine in 2021. Until Charles, the family had always sold off some of its fruit and wine rather than bottling everything themselves. He’s the first to estate-bottle the entire range.
The estate now farms just over 8 hectares, most of it in Gevrey-Chambertin, with recent additions in Aloxe-Corton, Corton, and the Côte de Nuits-Villages. A good share of the vines sit in Cazetiers, right behind the domaine, where Charles is the only grower with vines across all four recognized soil types in the climat. Farming leans organic, with a non-organic treatment used only when truly needed, and Charles has raised his canopies and experimented with frost protection, from warm-air fans to heating coils strung along the trellis wires, to protect the fruit through increasingly unpredictable springs.
Many of the oldest vines, some now over a century old, descend from Pinot Magnien, a natural mutation the family found in their own vineyards back in 1850. It produces small berries with a high skin-to-juice ratio, giving the fruit a natural concentration that lets Charles extract gently rather than push for more. Whenever a vine needs replacing, it’s replanted using massale selection from this same material, keeping the domaine’s oldest genetic material alive across every new planting.
Charles built a new cuverie in 2018, first used the following vintage, giving him more room and more control over the process. Grapes go through a cold maceration of seven to ten days before spontaneous fermentation begins in stainless steel, with cooler temperatures and pump-overs rather than punch-downs to keep the extraction soft. Some vintages are fully destemmed, others carry up to 40 percent whole clusters when the stems have ripened enough, and the 4 Carac’Terres cuvée is made entirely from whole clusters every year. Charles pays closer attention to where his oak comes from than to how old the barrels are. He isn’t after an oaky wine, just the slow, steady oxygen exchange that comes with it, and most of his barrels are new to two years old.
THE WINES
Côte de Nuits-Villages “Queue de Hareng” Clos François Thurot Monopole 2022
Robert Parker, 90/100
Queue de Hareng, literally herring tail, is a monopole within Clos François Thurot in Côte de Nuits-Villages, the broader appellation just south of Gevrey-Chambertin. It offers an accessible first read on the Magnien style before stepping up to the village and premier cru range.
Raspberry and plum lead the nose, with orange zest and warm spice behind. Medium bodied, the palate is seamless and lively, with a polished texture. It closes on a perfumed finish.
Gevrey-Chambertin 2022
Allen Meadows, 91/100
Magnien’s village Gevrey-Chambertin draws from parcels around the village itself, made to show the appellation’s classic profile before stepping into the single climats.
Plum, wild strawberry and cranberry, with forest floor and bramble underneath, and a whisper of smoked meat. Medium bodied, the palate carries fine-grained tannins and a bright thread of acidity. The finish carries a dash of warm spice.
Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes 2022
Jasper Morris, 92/100
Drawn from eight parcels ranging from vines planted in the 1980s to some dating to 1915, this cuvée leans on the domaine’s oldest fruit, much of it descended from the family’s own Pinot Magnien selection.
Morello cherry and strawberry open the nose, joined by rose petal. Medium bodied, the palate shows fine-grained tannins and a supple texture, with red and black cherry woven throughout. It finishes perfumed, with good length.
Aloxe-Corton 1er Cru La Coutière 2022
Jasper Morris, 93/100
Sourced from a 0.76-hectare parcel of vines over 50 years old, this is one of Magnien’s most recent additions, planted on the seam between the Côte de Beaune and the Côte de Nuits.
Opening with plum, strawberry and wild red cherry, with orange zest, toasted oak and a whisper of earth behind. Full bodied, the palate carries powdery tannins and genuine concentration. The finish runs long, with a touch of warmth.
Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Champeaux 2022
Jasper Morris, 94/100
Champeaux is one of four premier crus in Charles’s range, this bottling drawn from a 0.25-hectare parcel of vines under 35 years old, prized among Gevrey’s climats for its floral character and clarity.
Aromas of raspberry and wild strawberry, with a pinch of white pepper and a whisper of forest floor beneath subtle oak. Medium bodied, the palate carries a firm backbone and a silky, vibrant texture. The finish is clean and stony, with lasting persistence.
Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Estournelles Saint-Jacques 2022
Jasper Morris, 93/100
Estournelles Saint-Jacques comes from a 0.33-hectare holding of vines under 55 years old, planted on notably pale, marl-rich soil high on the hillside, one of Charles’s most elegant sites.
Red berries and dried flowers lead the nose, with orange rind and warm spice, and a touch of lightly toasted oak. Medium bodied, the palate is fine boned, with vivid acidity and delicate, grainy tannins. The finish turns mineral, with fresh energy.
Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux Saint-Jacques 2022
Jasper Morris, 94/100
Lavaux Saint-Jacques comes from a 0.26-hectare holding just up the slope from Estournelles, a site known for a riper, more generous style than its neighbor.
Plum, cherry and rose petal are joined by lavender and warm spice, with a smoky hint beneath. Full bodied, the palate is generous and layered, carrying silky tannins and plenty of depth. The finish lingers, touched with orange peel.
Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Cazetiers 2022
Jasper Morris, 95/100
Cazetiers sits just behind the domaine and makes up a large share of the estate’s holdings. Charles is the only grower with vines across all four recognized soil types within the climat, which lets this bottling show the full range of what Cazetiers can do.
Initially opening with raspberry, red cherry and fig, then showing hints of white pepper, peony, and a touch of crushed fennel beneath. Full bodied, the palate carries supple tannins with plenty of grip. The finish turns saline, with a warm edge.
Corton Les Grandes Lolières Grand Cru 2022
Jasper Morris, 94/100
Grandes Lolières is a grand cru climat planted with both red and white grapes, though French labeling rules forbid naming Chardonnay on a red Corton, and this parcel gives Charles his only grand cru foothold on the Côte de Beaune.
Red cherry, plum and wild strawberry evolve to notes of potpourri, black pepper and allspice, and a touch of earth beneath. Full bodied, the palate shows firm tannins and deep concentration. The finish stretches out, closing with warmth.
Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru 4 Carac’Terres 2022
Jasper Morris, 93/100
4 Carac’Terres blends selected grapes from all four of Charles’s premier crus, Cazetiers, Champeaux, Estournelles Saint-Jacques and Lavaux Saint-Jacques, and is the only cuvée in the range made entirely from whole clusters, with no destemming at all.
Sweet red berries and dried petals are joined by baking spice and a touch of orange rind. Full bodied, the palate is satiny, with melting tannins and a smooth, plush texture. The finish turns saline and perfumed.
Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru 2022
Jasper Morris, 97/100
Ruchottes-Chambertin is Charles’s grand cru and his smallest holding, just 0.16 hectares, and the most delicate wine in the range.
Strawberry and alpine strawberry lead the nose, with red rose and crushed stone, and a whisper of truffle and earth beneath. Medium bodied, the palate is sleek, with refined tannins and a mineral core. The finish is saline and persistent, closing on a delicate, poised note.
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